Pir Baba in North Western Province [now Pakistan]

Pir Baba’s Mazar

We were living in Mardan in the North Western Province in the early thirties. I was a fourth grader when my parents took a Ziarat [ yatra in modern Hindi] to the Mazar of Pir Baba in the hills. I don’t remember where the shrine was exactly located. But I remember that great preparations were made before taking the Ziarat as no vehicle could reach there, we had to walk several miles through dangerous areas inhabited by ferocious pathans. The hilly terrain was very barren and inhospitable, there was no water and no shade for miles. We had to walk in scorching Sun, about 110 degrees fahrenhieght.

Nobody rode a horse to the mazar. One had to depend on one's two legs and keep them moving to climb steep hillsides with small back-packs. If one came with a laden donkey he was sure to arouse the curiosity of the armed pathans, who did not bat an eye to loot and kill. The area was outside the administrative control of the British Government.

One had to go visit Pir Baba in faith, and confidence that he will take care of you. Mother, who had great faith, said: “We will go and I am sure Baba will see to it that all of us are all right.” Very early in the morning we left our house in a car and drove to the foot-hills of the mazar. Around 5am we left the car and started walking. Progress was very slow as the climb was very steep and the path was narrow and slippery because of layers of dust. By mid morning all of us were tired and perspiring profusely. Our guide advised us to drink a lot of water and eat onions to prevent sun-stroke.

Mother sat us in the shade of a jutting rock and gave us aloo paranthas and plenty of thin lassi and water to drink. After a short rest we were given our marching orders as we had to reach the shrine before mid-day. We had to return to our car before the onset of darkness. Darkness could be dangerous in these hills with so many armed brigands. Next few hours were grueling and we had to make determined efforts to keep moving as one sees in the Western Movies from America. Soon we were nearing the top of the hill and we were told that the mazar is now only a “stone's throw away.” Yes! It was about one and half a mile still to go.

We had another break with eggs, cheee, jam and bread and strong tea with generous quantities of milk. Mother said, “This is your lunch for today.”

After another half-hour trudge we reached the mazar; a white marble tomb of great beauty and simplicity. Father offered a chaddar for the mazar and both my mother and father prayed in silence for a while. After giving 101 rupees for feeding dervishes we left on our return journey which was less arduous as we were going down-hill. By early evening we reached our car and jumped into our seats with very great relief. “We have done it” was the mood while sitting in the comfort of the vehicle. It was around the night-fall that we saw the lights of Mardan, our home, our sanctuary.